We stayed in Napier last night having gone there when the cloud was so bad on the volacanoes. We had some very special views of Ruapehu on the way across the desert.
That in itself was amazing – the desert road. It was very windy indeed. The landscape reminded me a lot of Exmoor or the North Yorks moors. The sort of place where life should not exist but somehow clings on. The the thing that was startling was the strength of the wind which carved gullies into the ground revealing the layers of volcanic ash and sand over centuries – like miniature canyons. Amazing.
We made our way down out of the hills into the Esk Valley which brought back all sorts of memories for A and me. We drove out of Napier one Sunday after church when we were here on honeymoon to taste wine. We had a lovely lunch at Church Road and finally ended up at Esk Valley vineyard on our way back in to Napier. We loved the wine then, so as we made our way down the valley we spotted the vineyard and the cellar door and decided to go and taste for old times sake – and came away with a bottle of 2008 Chardonnay and 2009 Chenin Blanc to add to our stash of Cloudy Bay and St Clair wines!
The site in Napier was great and empty and big inc it's own restaurant (v slow service which was surprising bearing in mind that there were only 15 covers!)
We spent the morning and early afternoon of today - 25th March – soaking up the sun, the history and the architecture. A word about the latter 2.
Old Napier was hit by a earthquake in the 20s or 30s (sorry for my ignorance) which pretty much destroyed the town. It was rebuilt in the fashion of the day in Art Deco style. Resultantly, the past, but the very present, has been preserved as if in amber, in the very trendy style of the day.
We spent our day enjoying palm tree lined streets and, whilst ignoring most of the shop fronts, we looked up to the buildings above. The sun shone, the sea laced wind blew. We had a great lunch in a local caf. Of all the places we have visited in NZ, Al and I both agreed we could live there.
Off the stinky smells and otherworldly sights of Rotarua for 3 days via Hukka Falls and Lady Knox Geyser – mud pools, hungi, champagne pools here we come.
Hoping also to go to church for Palm Sunday. I have found it so hard not being at a church. Not attending worship had been part of my stripping away and seeing with fresh eyes. But not having been has been feeling like I have been dumped. I am missing being with the One I love and who loves me and taking my place within the Body of Christ, the Bride, wherever she may be. I find myself emotional and teary thinking about her and how I miss her. I am aware that we are being borne in prayer, but not sharing in the Eucharist since the first Sunday in Lent has been my desert road and unimaginably hard. It miss it like a lover. I miss her – the church – like a lover. How I long to be embraced by God and her on Sunday.
We made it to Rotarua fine via Hukka Falls (stunning), the Lady Knox geyser (very special and worth seeing bearing in mind how close to it we were. We also saw the first mud pools of our visit, and they, according to Peter, STINK!
We then went on to Wai O Tapu thermal wonderland. An excellent if not smelly visit and a great introduction to the technicolour geothermal world of yellows (sulphur), reds (iron or arsenic), and many other shades. We had an amazing time in both places and I was amazed at the power of the natural world but also aware that somewhere beneath my feet was some very hot rock! The park was lovely and the native bush was very special indeed. The sun shone, it was hot although that could be as much to do with the geothermal stuff around us.
Finally made our way into Rotarua, having prepared the boys for 'the smell' and there was nothing! Not a whiff! Weird eh? We got here by the skin of our teeth as the fuel light had been on for a while. Our site is small but central and we were able, having enjoyed a swim, to walk 15 mins into the cetre to find an evening meal.
On the way, found the local church, St Luke's and may well worship there on Sunday – just 10 minutes walk up the road which is great.
The kids have been stars today too – long may that continue!
Whilst in Rotorua we spent the day at Te Puia which is effectively a Maori cultural institution. There are carving and weaving schools at there to continue to teach and pass on these two vital elements of Maori cultural identity.
We were part of a guided tour round the compound, for a better word. This began at the gate of he meeting house. We witnessed the 'challenge' where a fern leaf is placed on the ground some distance away by a Maori warrior. The 'chief' of our tribe then stood at a distance whilst the warrior did some ritual 'posturing' – the only way I ca describe it, I guess trying to show us how brave a strong his tribe were. When that was over, our chief went over and picked up the leaf and we were welcomed in song into the meeting house.
Inside the house, having removed our shoes, we were treated to songs, poi twirling, and a haka. All very moving and surprisingly loud! Found myself deeply moved by the simple melodies and beautiful harmonies of the singing and how similar (and it must be because the peoples must be related in some way) to other Polynesian music I have heard before.
The Haka, or war dance, is performed by the All Blacks before a rugby match, but was done before battle traditionally. Lots of bulging eyes, stamping of feet, slapping of chests and protruding of tongues (which signified to their enemies that they would soon pass beyond the tongue into the warrior's belly – all figuratively speaking of course!) It's pretty scary stuff actually, and son 3 was transfixed with pleasure and fear and gripped my hand extra tight. Afterwards he said of it, 'that nearly hurt my feelings!' Mine too Peter, mine too..
Lunch, which came to us late so free drinks and ice cream yay, was a Hangi. Cooked underground on a fire in some way, but consisted of sweet potato, squash, baked potato, cabbage, herbed breadcrumbs and chicken and it was delish.
The rest of the time a Te Puia was taken up with a guided tour seeing the weaving and carving schools, and the amazing geothermal stuff – more mud, more geysers, more pools, more stink. We left via the shop about 4pm! A fantastic and really worthwhile day out.
Sunday – we went to church! I have already commented how hard I have found it not going, and maybe that has been my desert experience and I would like to reflect on it more, but we went to St Luke's.
A modern, 1970s building, organ, music group, contemporary stained glass, chairs, and the most fabulous wooden altar table built from massive bits of wood – looked almost like railway sleepers. Congregation of mixed ages, stages, bodily ability, the bulletin telling us they were a child friendly church and it all felt very familiar.
We were welcomed warmly at the door by the vicar who remembered our names when it came to the eucharist...
The hymns were familiar to us (Ride on, ride on in majesty for example) and the NZ liturgy is familiar but different enough to draw us in. Some bits of CW have obviously nicked and then adapted the NZ liturgy.
We had all 3 readings and a psalm. The address was basically an overview of what the events of Holy Week mean. A couple of nice illustrations which I will have to try and recall. There was a simple childrens talk which ivolved re-enacting of the Gospel using flax fronds – a nice inculturation – processing round the church.
Our palm crosses were not palm, but flax. Again a right and appropriate Kiwi-isation of the Gospel. A nice touch.
But sweet sacrament divine! The grace and mercy of God has never tasted so imbued with the light and life of heaven in bread and wine. We received in the round – family around the family table for the family meal. Beautiful.
I was overcome by the presence of God and felt enveloped by His love. I cannot explain the whole experience but I was in tears or on the verge of tears for the majority of the service. I felt profoundly and divinely loved.
Later on we experienced the opposite – what we could only describe as spiritual attack. We had lunch in a local cafe and wandered over the road to have an ice cream. We were sitting outside on a bench enjoying the sun when out of nowhere came a young Maori lad in skate gear, who looked directly at us, eyeballing us, and then from a large pocket produced a bottle of red wine which he brandished and then smashed on the edge of a nearby bin.
Alex, Ben and Peter had some superficial cuts from the glass and all of us were a bit shaken up by the whole experience. What a waste of wine! But at a spiritual level, I take the experience almost as a warning of some sort. A reminder that as we revel in the love of God, especially this Holy Week, the darkness of sin lurks around and within us all and from what we all need redemption from.